Following my post previewing a blog trip to SkÃ¥ne (skorr-na) County with a bunch of other bloggers, I’m back and am able to give you the lowdown on the region. SkÃ¥ne is one of those parts of a country that really charms you. It has cities with loads of character, a long coastline and acres of rolling hills, all connected by an efficient rail system.

To effectively spend a weekend in Skåne, you need to hit up the cities. The two best in my opinion are Malmö and Helsingborg, as they have the coolest things to check out and the best nightlife on offer.
I’d recommend starting off in Malmö on the first day, staying the night there, and then hitting up Helsingborg on the second day. Let’s dive straight into it.

Malmö

A former trading and shipbuilding city, Malmö has turned itself into a technology and knowledge city in recent decades. Preserving the character of the old town in the inner city along with transforming the waterfront to a hip new cosmopolitan area has made this city the shining star of SkÃ¥ne. Having recently celebrated their 300,000th citizen, it’s the most populous city in SkÃ¥ne with an interesting cross-section of Danish and Swedish tradition mixed with ethnic influence from all round the world.

Things to See and Do

Everywhere you look in Malmö you see a strong trend of modern innovation underpinned by a firm foundation in the historic value of the city. This is particularly evident when you exit the train station.

Picturesque coloured houses in Malmö’s old town

To one side is the bustling Old Town with the beautiful old buildings and square, and on the other the new harbour-side development full of restaurants and new apartments.

Turning Torso

Know how I mentioned the waterfont? Well the Turning Torso is the focal point of this recent development. At 190m high, it’s the tallest building in Sweden. The design is meant to resemble the turning torso of a person, with the steel white spine representing that of a human. It’s purposes are half residential and half offices and it has dramatically changed the skyline since it was completed in 2006.

Form/Design Center

In the heart of the old town, the Form/Design Center really showcases the design prowess the Swedes are so well known for. Best of all, it’s totally free to enter.

In the Form/Design Center, you can explore 3 floors of interesting design concepts including extremely stylish furniture, functional art and crafts and homewares. It really gives you an idea into where the whole IKEA thing started from.

City Hall/Stortorget

As with most European cities, Malmö has a lovely central square and city hall to admire in the heart of town.

A short walk from the train station, you enter the Stortorget (large square) and are instantly presented with dramatic old buildings on all sides. Most notably the city hall, with its striking fascade and copper roof.

Lilla Torg

The “Little Square”, Lilla Torg is packed with cafes and bars. Perfect for relaxing at the end of the day with a coffee and a slice of cheesecake.

Come nightfall, make your way back to enjoy a beer or cider outside under the heated canopies. Lilla Torg is right next to Stortorget, so you’ll easily locate it.

Food and Drink

Both the central Old Town and the new harbour developments are teeming with outstanding restaurants. You’ll find cutting edge Swedish cuisine as well as a significant presence of ethnic tastes.

Malmö is also the falafel capital of SkÃ¥ne, you can’t turn a corner without seeing a shop selling them. When you’re drunk at 2am, you’ll know what to do.

Salt & Brygga

Salt & Brygga is a cool little slow food, organic restaurant on the western harbour. They basically defined the organic food movement in Malmö and have set the trend ever since.

They only create food from produce that comes from local farms that practice ecologically sound agriculture. If it can’t be sourced locally, they’ll only bring things in that can be moved by rail. Björn Stenbeck put his ass on the line over 10 years ago to push the boundaries of food in Sweden, and a lot of people thought he was mad. Because of practices like these, Salt & Brygga have become internationally renowned for their dedication to the cause.

Even down to the glue in the chairs and the way the leather is treated, no corners are cut here to make sure it’s all natural. Their dedication to the local economy is reflected in the matt black chandeliers hanging from the ceiling, made by hand by a local blacksmith.

The menu really reflects all the work put into being natural, organic and sustainable. You’ll find three great set menus of fish, lamb and vegetarian on offer along with an extensive la carte menu. A huge selection of great organic wines are available and a range of beers that I’d never heard of before.

Chocolate Factory

The only chocolate factory in Sweden, this is the place to go to satisfy your sweet tooth in Malmö.

Inside you’ll find a well stocked cafe with loads of chocolate varieties like white chocolate infused with citrus, milk chocolate with cardamon and dark chilli chocolate. Once you’re all pepped up on chocolate, check out the mini museum next door where you can learn all about the production process.

A bit of orientation

Here’s a handy map laying out all the sights mentioned above to give you an idea of where things are in Malmö.
Click on the markers to see the sights listed and zoom and pan around to see more of the map.

View 48 hours in Malmö in a larger map

Where to stay

When we went, we stayed at the Elite Plaza Hotel in Malmö. It’s pretty chic, with lots of hardwood floors, stylish furniture and modern fixtures like big screen TVs. The beds are plush and bathrooms well stocked. Each morning you can expect an extensive spread consisting of traditional Scandinavian fare (cold meats, cheeses and breads) all the way through to scrambled eggs and bacon.

On a more budget note, Malmö also has a couple of hostels you can check out. The STF Vandrarhem City Hostel is clean, well appointed and centrally located. A great place to bed down for the next before taking on Helsingborg the following day.

Helsingborg

Located a bit further up the coast, Helsingborg is a great second city to check out in SkÃ¥ne. It’s got a 14th century castle, a great cosmopolitan waterfront, cool bars and cafes and a compact old town district to explore.

Things to See and Do

Thanks to the waterfront being on one side and a steep hilly incline on the other, the city of Helsingborg is compact and stretched out, making it easy to navigate and potter about in. Whether you wander through the densely developed old town or meander along the waterfront, there’s heaps to see in Helsingborg.

Helsingborg Castle/Kärnan

Kärnan was built in the early 14th century when Skåne was part of Denmark to defend the entrance to the Baltic Sea. It was part of a fortress that was surrounded by a ring wall with 14 defensive towers. Today, only the tower remains, restored in the late 19th century, around 1894. The entrance gate was built shortly after this time to frame the tower better when viewed from below, which it does a bloody good job of, creating this impressive vista below.

It’s worth walking up the stairs and around the towers to get a great panoramic view of Helsingborg just above the skyline. You can also climb up inside Kärnan to see as far a field as Helsingor in Denmark and learn more about this significant landmark that was instrumental during the war between Denmark and Sweden.

View of Helsingborg at night from Kärnan

Sofiero

A stunning manor house set on a large acreage not far out of Helsingborg, Sofiero is the Swedish royal family’s summer residence. Built in the mid 19th century, the location was selected because Crown Prince Oscar’s ill wife Sofia felt the most well when in this part of Sweden. It was built in two stages, the first to a strict budget when Oscar was a Prince of lesser importance in the royal family, with only one storey. The second storey was added when he became King.

The beautifully manicured gardens and grounds feature undulating ravines and long sweeping lawns dotted with sculpture. The gardens were first developed by British princess Margaret (the granddaughter of Queen Victoria) and her husband Prince Gustaf Adolf when they received the palace as a wedding gift. Inside the palace, you’ll find an exhibition telling the story of the Swedish royal family in Sofiero and why it was such a beloved residence.

Sofiero was awarded Europe’s Best Park in 2010 and is well worth the visit to admire the palace and grounds. Entry is 80 SEK for adults, it’s open from 10am to 6pm and it can be reached easily by bus from Helsingborg.

Food and Drink

In Helsingborg there’s absolutely no shortage of quality restaurants, konditori (cafe/bakery) and bars. The middle of the city is pumping on a Saturday night, and you’ll find a slew of bars close by to the castle area.

Pålsjö Krog

Located on the shore on the road out to Sofiero, this place has a real nautical theme to it. On the walls you’ll find lots of kitschy items like huge fish, framed photos of memorable events in the past 60 years and old liquor signs.

It was here that I was treated to some WILD BOAR (yes, caps was necessary). It was plentiful and complimented with some nice greens and sauce (as seen above). The starters are very seafood focused, whereas things loosen up a bit in the mains, with more choice on offer. The restaurant has a picturesque view over the sound, and is a great place to enjoy a meal and watch the ferries plough back and forth between Helsingborg and Helsingor on the Denmark side.

Helsing

Located right before the castle, this place is heaving on a Saturday night. Loads of outdoor seating with heaters and blankets are available out the front and the insides features a large bar in the middle of the cavernous main room.

All of Helsingborg’s beautiful people frequent this joint, be prepared to see some sensational examples of Swedes. Drinks aren’t cheap, but the music is good and it’s a nice place to hang out either during the day or at night.

A bit of orientation

Here’s a handy map laying out all the sights mentioned above to give you an idea of where things are in Helsingborg.
Click on the markers to see the sights listed and zoom and pan around to see more of the map.

View Helsingborg in a larger map

How to get there

Because Malmö and Helsingborg are just across the Øresund from Denmark, you should fly into Copenhagen airport. Being such a European hub, you can get flights here on a number of different airlines, but easyJet will be your best bet.

Once you’ve landed, take the Øresund train across the bridge and straight into Sweden. The Øresund train traverses both sides of the sound, from Helsingor on the Danish side all the way up to Gothenborg on the Swedish side. Trains that leave Copenhagen airport go straight to Malmö and Helsingborg, easy huh?

Budget

This is Sweden, so we’re not talking bargain basement Eastern European prices here. But expect a beer to cost you between 50-70 SEK and a meal will be about 200 SEK. It’s cheaper than Stockholm, but still a bit more expensive than Copenhagen.

Conclusion

SkÃ¥ne is an area of Sweden that most travellers wouldn’t think about visiting, let alone even know of. But it’s close proximity to Copenhagen, natural beauty, easily explored cities and great train network make it a more relaxed choice for a weekend trip. You’ll experience a different side of Sweden, one that is markedly different from Stockholm, with a more relaxed vibe and friendly atmosphere.

Have you been to this part of Sweden before? What did you like about it most? Did I miss something you think is worth a visit? Let me know in the comments.

Disclosure: I travelled to SkÃ¥ne as a guest of Visit Sweden on a blog trip, however all opinions are my own Check out SkÃ¥ne’s new Facebook app, which helps you plan your perfect getaway to SkÃ¥ne.